EXHIBITION - INDIAN PERIOD JEWELRY (APR 11-30, 2013) : ABOUT THE EXHIBITION

Treasures of the Past is a series of events celebrating the rich and varied heritage of Indian art through exhibitions and an auction. In this exhibition, Saffronart presents a collection of twenty-nine unique Indian period jewels.

Indian jewelry represents one of the greatest traditions of artistic skills in the world: a tradition of unbroken continuity of design and manufacture. Jewels in India functioned as fashion accessories, symbols of prosperity, apotropaic charms and as security in times of need. The culture of Indian jewelry encompasses a wide universe of traditions, wisdom and skills – a cultural patrimony with no less than a five thousand year continuous legacy of jewelry making in the world.

This collection reflects the tastes and styles of various Indian states and features jewels like necklaces, bajubands (armlets), pendants set with important stones, jhumar (head ornaments) and kadas (bangles) fashioned primarily from gold, encrusted with precious stones, and finished with fine meenakari (enameling). The designs invariably are drawn from nature – ear ornaments simulating marigolds, elements of necklaces replicating mango and jasmine buds, pendants with delicate blossoms engraved on the reverse, and bangles with makara, elephants and peacocks dancing amidst enamel gardens full of narcissus flowers.

Each jewel is crafted either as a solid, substantial piece, or worked on with techniques like filigree to create a delicate ornament. There are numerous styles in which precious stones can be incorporated into these jewels. Some of the most typical methods used in India is jadau, wherein stones like table-cut ‘polki’ diamonds and ruby and emerald cabochons are inset into recesses hollowed out in gold, and the similar kundan technique, where fine or highly refined gold foils are used to set gemstones in the champlevé style without claws. Other popular Indian forms of crafting include threading gems like pearls, rubies and emeralds on fine gold wires and suspending them as tassels or fringes, and intricate engraving on metal and gems alike, particularly emeralds.