Important Notice

GORGAN, IRAN, CIRCA 1950
Handspun and handwoven silk, machine embroidery with silk thread, gold-coloured cord
Length 40 in (102 cm), Sleeve span 35.25 in (90 cm)


Handspun and handwoven red silk coats with stripes were worn by young Turkoman in Gorgan, adjacent to the Caspian Sea area. Slim cut but with a wide flair, the lower flaps of the coat area folded over to display the embroidery on the inner lining with an intriguing arrangement of oval patterns. The coat is edged with gold cord, giving it a regal look and is generally worn over fitted trousers and high boots.

According to Jasleen Dhamija, this robe is similar in style to the belted coat worn by Emperor Kanishka in the monumental statue at the Mathura Museum in Uttar Pradesh. Kanishka was the ruler of the Kushan dynasty in the 2nd century.

Jasleen Dhamija bought this coat at Panch Shombe Bazaar in 1971 at the Thursday market of the Turkomans where their special products were sold and they also organised horse racing and cultural programmes.

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