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Amin Jaffer, Beyond Extravagance. A Royal Collection of Gems and Jewels, New York: Assouline, 2013, first edition

411 pages, publisher's limitation card mounted to title verso, profuse whole page colour illustrations; original indigo-coloured silk and gold metallic threads in a Tibetan style brocade, handwoven in India, all gilt edges, housed within a red velvet clamshell box and has a magnetic closure
13.5 x 10.75 x 3 in (34 x 27.5 x 7.5 cm) (book size)
17.5 x 12.25 x 5.75 in (44 x 31 x 14.5 cm) (clamshell box)

This is copy no. 53 of a deluxe edition of 600 copies.

A book celebrating the unique tradition of Indian court jewellery.

This book catalogues and analyzes the uniquely sophisticated tradition of jewellery within India, as well as its evolution of style and technique, by examining the Al Thani collection of Indian jewellery, consisting of more than 100 magnificent pieces that span over four hundred years from the royal courts of the Mughal Empire to 21st-century innovations.

Dr. Amin Jaffer, the Director of The Al Thani Collection and a renowned expert on Indian art, edited the 416-page tome, which features contributions from a team of distinguished academics and jewellery experts. Contributions from Michael Spink, Dr. Jack Ogden, Dr. Katherine Prior, Judy Rudoe, and Vivienne Becker are included in the essays of Dr. Robert Skelton, the former curator of the Indian Department at the V&A.

Dr. Jaffer played a critical role in the collection's inspiration and curation as a long-standing friend of the collector. He believed the publication would "awaken a new understanding of the subject, please the eye, and inspire a love of Indian jewellery among future generations.".

The book features more than 120 pieces from a collection that was initiated by a member of the Royal Family of Qatar who is passionate about Indian jewellery and craftsmanship. Although some of the items featured in Beyond Extravagance have been displayed in museum exhibitions or on the market, the collection as a whole has never been exhibited.

The collection includes a number of pieces with secure provenance, including the Arcot II, a Golconda diamond that was previously in the crown jewels of George IV, despite the fact that little is known about the craftsmen who created many of the pieces of jewellery featured in the book.

Some of the most remarkable items are a gem-set tiger's head finial from the throne of Tipu Sultan in Mysore, which dates back to the late 18th century; a carved jade dagger that belonged to Shah Jahan, the builder of the Taj Mahal; and a ruby choker that was created for the Maharaja of Patiala by Cartier in 1931.

This book is ideal for anyone with an interest in Indian jewellery or regal gems, as it provides a comprehensive tour of a captivating private collection.