Important Notice

KASHMIR, CIRCA 1930
Handspun and handwoven Pashmina, hand embroidered, natural dyes, machine spun and woven wool
Length 50 in (127 cm), Sleeve span 62.75 in (160 cm)


The arrangement of the trellis design on the present lot is ordered across diagonals with more of the light brown ground colour visible. Butas, filled with small flowers appearing almost like single buds, make up the border of the garment. On either end of the opening of the robe a larger more stylised buta is embroidered with the same floral pattern filling its body. The robe is held together in the front with toggles made from cord.

Elaborate field patterns, involving repeating flowering plants placed in compartments and framed within various lattice systems were a feature of 16th - 17th century Mughal art. The design can be seen on carpets and was attributed to Jawshaqan, near Isfahan, once a major carpetweaving centre in Iran. Known as the Jawshaqan tile pattern, this design was especially popular in India during the 17th century. The design was also prevalent on pashmina shawls, and particularly popular on jamawar yardage.

The present lot was acquired by Jasleen Dhamija in the early 1960s for Ram Dhamija, during a trip to Kashmir. She had the size of the sleeves increased by adding millmade woollen cloth in a similar colour, to fit Ram Dhamija.

Other similar works in: this auction  |  entire site