Important Notice

KASHMIR, MID 19TH CENTURY
Handspun and handwoven Pashmina, natural dyes
55 x 114 in (140 x 290 cm)

NON-EXPORTABLE


This is a fine example of an elaborately designed kani shawl with large end borders extending almost one-third of the way up the body of the shawl. Twill tapestry weaving, known as kani, was perfected in Kashmir. In the tapestry technique, a large number of bobbins, each loaded with yarn of a different colour, are used instead of a shuttle. Combined with the twill weave and using the finest yarn it creates an effect that is almost impossible to reproduce by mechanical means.

Shawls were often woven in pairs and referred to as doshala, meaning two shawls. This referred to the practice of weaving shawls in pairs so that they could be stitched back-to-back so the reverse was not visible, evoking the feel of a dorukha. These shawls were especially popular during Emperor Akbar's reign. Elaborate shawls were primarily used by men. Among the Parsi and some North Indian communities, many affluent families were proud owners of pashmina shawls such as seen in the present lot. They were an important part of attire at most ritual functions and were also given as gifts during Parsi weddings. Usually part of the bride's dowry, they could be used by either the bride or the groom. The present lot belonged to Jasleen Dhamija's mother, who came from the frontier region of Abbottabad.

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