Important Notice

SWAT, PAKISTAN, CIRCA 1930
Handspun and handwoven cotton, hand embroidered with untwisted silk thread, natural dyes
Length 34 in (87 cm), Sleeve span 57.75 in (147 cm)


Swat valley in the north west province of Pakistan, near the Hindu Kush mountains, is known for its fine embroidered textiles. Placement, spacing and motifs are what make the Swati textile unique. They show a recognisable composition, a symmetrical placement of patterns in neat rows, dense and tightly constructed.

The present lot is a woman's blouse or kurti, with long sleeves which would be worn over loose shalwars. It is elaborately embroidered in shades of pink, red and yellow on a black ground, the silk threads giving the garment a rich sheen. Embroidered from the reverse, in a technique similar to phulkari shawls, the designs are first outlined with one running stitch and then filled in, usually in a satin stitch. In keeping with Islamic tenants, the designs tend to be geometric and floral, and yet they are bold and convey a sense of strength by the wearer. Jasleen Dhamija acquired this piece in Karachi.

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