Important Notice

DHAKA, BANGLADESH, 1984
Handspun and handwoven cotton, natural dyes, indigo
218 x 46.25 in (553.8 x 118 cm)


Old, undivided Bengal had an ancient textile tradition, rooted above all in the skilled weaving of delicate, light-weight muslins - the fine malmals and jamdanis that Dhaka was especially well known for. The finest handspun and handwoven cottons in India were made in Bengal and belonged to the group of textiles known as 'Jamdani' or 'Daccai' weaves. Originally named after the city of Dhaka, and thus known as Daccai, the Persian term jamdani (jam meaning flower, dani a vase) came to be used as the textiles gained popularity in the Mughal courts. Jamdanis were recognised for their decorative floral patterns.

The fabric was made with extra-weft weaving, which was non-continuous. The woven designs ranged in quality from the finest jamdani woven in the same shade and count as the weft yarn to create a shadowy effect, to bold patterns in multi-colours with a thick twisted cotton yarn. Highly renowned, was the exquisite and fine quality of the white-on-white jamdani, mostly created as yardage material for garments. These jamdani weaves were largely made in Dhaka, and were extremely valuable. They were patronised by various Mughal emperors and even formed a part of the annual tribute paid by Dhaka to the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb (1658-1707). The translucent muslins with ethereal and delicate floral patterning were highly prized. Though the looms used were simple, the pattern detailing was labour intensive and apart from time, it required the dexterous and delicate touch of a master weaver to make.

Saris were woven in a range of designs with different coloured weft threads. The present lot is an elegantly woven blue jamdani sari, made as part of the textile revival movement initiated by Ruby Ghaznavi in Bangladesh. The silver-grey thread designs resemble a shimmering starstudded night sky against the deep blue of the ground colour. Known as the 'Nilambari' - nila for blue and ambar for the sky - women longed to wrap themselves in the star-studded sky.

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